Grumpy Glutton

Grand Opening in CoCoCo Today

Grumpy — Sat, 21 Jun 2008 16:15:25 GMT

A flack, er, fine public relations professional, asked me to pass on the news of Qin's Asian Bistro & Bar's grand opening party today, in Antioch.

Qin's (pronounced Chins) Asian Bistro & Bar
5007 Lone Tree Way
Corner of Hillcrest Avenue in the Lone Tree Landing Shopping Center
Antioch, CA 94531
925-754-8888

Saturday, June 21, Noon -- Midnight

Social Hour Drink Prices All Day and Night: $3 beer and well drinks, $5 select house wine specials

11:00 AM -- 8:00 PM: free passed hors d'ouevres

1:00 PM -- 2:00 PM: Eden Aoba Taiko Drummers
4:00 PM -- 8:00 PM: Live Jazz
8:00 PM -- 10:00 PM: Light House Electronic Music
10:00 PM -- Midnight: DJ Greg Eversoul

Livin' Life by the Slice

Grumpy — Sat, 31 May 2008 15:08:22 GMT

If you want to grab a quick bite and be on your way, nothing beats a good slice of 'za. I was reminded of this a couple of days ago when I exited my tax guy's office and decided to nosh before grabbing the bus home.

My visit to my accountant ended in that tweener hour before dinner -- a perfect time for a quick slice instead of a full meal. Hello, Village Pizzeria, just a block away, on Van Ness.

I ordered a slice of pepperoni. The thin crust stood up the whole way to the inside edge, offered good crunch and nice taste. Appropriate amounts of cheese and sauce were applied, lending a nice balance that was not too cheesy, not too saucy, just right. The pepperoni was great, a touch salty, a touch spicy. The pie was greasy. I used two napkins to bring the oil under control. But that notwithstanding, the slice was excellent. So excellent that immediately upon finishing it, I ordered another.

My only grump was that the fountain Coke was flat. Sounds trivial but this was a big deal to me.

There's nothing that satisfies quite like an ice cold Coca-Cola. But, I ...

Is This The Best The City Can Do?

Grumpy — Fri, 30 May 2008 15:14:47 GMT

Yesterday, Eater SF pointed out that Gourmet named the Ten Hottest Italian Restaurants in San Francisco, opining, "the honorees make some sense." (If you don't get the "actually makes sense" part, see Eater's and Le Blog de San Francisco's demolitions of SF Weekly's recent Best of San Francisco and Readers' Poll lists, which contained a number of, uh, curious choices, to be polite. One demolisher also got demolished but that's another story.) Gourmet's list -- A16, Beretta, Delfina, Ducca, Farina, Incanto, La Ciccia, Perbacco, Pesce and SPQR -- certainly heels to the conventional wisdom regarding Italian dining in the City. However, it leaves me cold. If this is the best the City can do, it's lame.

The only one I wholeheartedly endorse is Perbacco. They churn out some darn fine salumi. I just wish it was more convenient so I could get there more often.

My reservation about Delfina has nothing to do with the food -- it's excellent. But, I've never understood it being called Italian. A more appropriate designation would be Cal-Med. COCO500's menu contains as many Italian items -- a couple ...

The Dreaded Three-Visit Rule

Grumpy — Tue, 27 May 2008 22:32:49 GMT

In a comment on my The Ten Most Overrated Restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area (2008) post, Lori of The Gourmet Chronicles said, “[Y]ou can't have enough information to pass full judgment on a place unless you've eaten a full meal there at least three times. Sounds like you only went to some of these places once & you do the restaurants and your readers as well as yourself a disservice (Credibility loss), if you opine too soon especially on the most highly rated (by mainstream critics) & popular places on your list.”

I respectfully and completely disagree that three visits are required for a blogger to render an opinion. (And, I apologize for taking so long to write this promised entry.)

I briefly listed some reasons in my response to Lori’s comment. If a place sucks, it’s one and done for me, especially if I’m paying $50+ per head for the experience. Also, special occasion restaurants must be on point, every single night, every single meal. If they aren’t, someone’s occasion wasn’t special. Writing about a single bad experience is absolutely valid for this type of restaurant.

But I think that there’s something ...

Headscratcher

Grumpy — Tue, 27 May 2008 00:40:10 GMT

I'm not usually one of those guys who goes apoplectic about the stuff that Michael Bauer writes. I really like his blog. His reviews, not so much. I'm not a fan of the restaurant critic writing style. Despite what the haters who haunt the comments section of his blog say, I believe he makes an honest attempt to be fair with his reviews and to maintain anonymity, a difficult thing to do when you've been a critic as long as he has in this city. And, I suspect that he works a whole lot harder than most people realize.

But everyone once in a while, he writes something that just makes me go WTF???

His intro to last week's San Francisco Chronicle Food & Wine Newsletter was the latest case in point. In it, he writes about how meatballs have become the latest fad to hit Bay Area menus. He concludes by saying, "If I want good ole-fashioned spaghetti and meatballs, I head to Chow...."

MB's continuing fascination with Chow escapes me. It's bad enough that he perennially include them in his Top 100. But pimping their spaghetti and meatballs???

I've tried ...

Q is not Q

Grumpy — Sun, 25 May 2008 18:29:13 GMT

By trade, I’m a marketing guy. For years, I’ve had an ongoing debate with a friend of mine, another marketing guy with whom I’ve worked at two companies, regarding naming businesses. I maintain that the name should say something about the company. B-Mon thinks otherwise, claiming a name that reflects the business can hurt a company if, as often happens, it evolves in a different direction. After dining at Q and being misled by a name that didn’t change when the concept did, I’m awarding a point to B-Mon.

Mackie and I were pining for some barbeque. Based on the name (short, in many circles, for barbeque), the Zagat cuisine description (barbeque) and rating (food score of 20), as well as our assessment of parking in the area (more difficult than we calculated), we decided that Q fit the bill.

My first hint of trouble came when I glanced at the specials list before I walked in the door. A cheese plate led off the appetizer section. What kind of self-respecting barbeque joint serves a cheese plate??? Nevertheless, I soldiered onward.

My second hint came when I looked at the full menu. The ...

Pollan Watch

Grumpy — Fri, 23 May 2008 00:05:24 GMT

It’s hard to read about food in the San Francisco Bay Area without coming across Michael Pollan. My most recent reminder came when I listened to the “A Butcher and a Chef Walk into a Bar” podcast. I could envision Josh Epple’s eyes rolling when he described the behavior of customers who took Pollan’s book “The Omnivore's Dilemma” just a bit too seriously.

I’d like to read Pollan’s books but I hesitate to buy them because I get the sneaking suspicion that I’ll regret sending my money into his wallet. It’s the exact reason that I don’t buy books written by Ann Coulter, Rush Limbaugh (to pick two caricatures of the right), Al Franken or Arianna Huffington (ditto the left).

Perusing Pollan’s web site gave credence to my suspicions. Take, for example, "Our Decrepit Food Factories," a piece that he wrote for the New York Times Magazine. In it, he tells two tales, the second about honeybees. ...

Grumpiness Loves Company

Grumpy — Thu, 22 May 2008 12:38:53 GMT

When Eater SF posted a link to listing of the Ten Most Overrated Restaurants in the United States (and New York City and Europe -- the praised and panned Michael Mina was the only San Francisco entry in the U.S. list), it was near and dear to my heart. By far, my most popular post to date has been The Ten Most Overrated Restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area.

It also got me thinking -- how many other most overrated lists are out there? Here's a sampling of what I found, ignoring lists on sucktastic sites such as Yelp.

1) Most overrated in America from the Wall Street Journal, a bit dated as it comes from 2003 but a good read nevertheless. Having eaten at Chez Panisse (at least the upstairs café) and The Ivy, I have to agree with the author's assessment ...

Ten, No, Eleven Things I’ve Learned Since I Started This Blog…

Grumpy — Thu, 22 May 2008 18:38:26 GMT

…and Two Questions I Can’t Answer

1) There’s no “n” in restaurateur.

2) The plural of “prima ballerina” is “prime ballerine.”

3) Restaurants with decent interiors (Thai House Express, Zagat Décor Score: 12, Food inspection score: 78) aren’t always cleaner than restaurants with crappy interiors (San Tung, Zagat Décor Score: 8, Food inspection score: 94)

4) It’s mascarpone, not marscapone.

5) Hircine is to goat as bovine is to cow.

6) Puttanesca sauce means sauce of the whore. See Waiter Rant and Wikipedia.

7) Michael Bauer reads, and responds to, his e-mail.

8) It’s Salvadoran, not Salvadorian.

9) You get flamed if you praise Michael Mina.

10) You get flamed if you diss Michael Mina.

11) The bubbles in a glass of beer get larger and accelerate as they rise. In more than 30 years of beer drinking, I'd never noticed this until a guy sitting next to me at a bar pointed it out.

And the questions I can't answer... ...

Right Coast Left

Grumpy — Sun, 25 May 2008 18:39:19 GMT

The Old Port Lobster Shack in Redwood City tries really hard to bring a little slice of Maine to California. Unfortunately, their reach exceeds their grasp.

I went whole hog for the 1 ¼ pound steamed Maine lobster ($32.75). It disappointed. Granted, it's been a decade or more since I've eaten a lobster in New England but I don't remember well-prepared ones leaking as much water or being marred by as much icky white stuff (I'm sure it has a name but I don't know it so it's icky white stuff to me) as this one. The claws were good -- tasty, tender and a great carrier for the accompanying drawn butter -- but the tail was tough. Side fries lousy -- mushy, little taste. Side corn on the cob good. Side cole slaw surprisingly good, aided by the unexpected addition of raisins.

Mackie tried the naked lobster roll ($18.75) -- lobster meat served on a toasted "top-loading" hot dog bun, drawn butter on the side. Mackie wasn't interested in the bread. She just didn't want to pick her lobster meat out of a shell. She enjoyed it but it's not my idea of how to eat lobster. Served ...

A Butcher and a Chef Walk into a Bar

Grumpy — Mon, 19 May 2008 13:47:31 GMT

I had planned to attend this event, hosted by Deborah Pardes of Get Smart Radio, featuring Traci Des Jardines, (Chef/Owner of Jardiniere and Mijita as well as Managing Chef of Acme Chophouse) and Josh Epple (co-owner of Drewes Bros. Meats), when it was held on April 17. Unfortunately, I was unable to make it and, after listening to the podcast, I'm sorry that was the case. The discussion was interesting and I’d have liked the opportunity to have posed some questions.

The most ironic moment of the podcast came when Traci Des Jardines said, “The idea that anyone should sit down and eat a 30 ounce steak is just wrong.” This from a chef who serves a 22 ounce steak for one person at the Acme Chophouse! Granted, 30 ounces is larger than 22 ounces but replace 30 with 22 and her statement is still true. That’s why I have a problem with Acme assessing ...

Left Bank, Gauche Service

Grumpy — Mon, 19 May 2008 22:23:48 GMT

Mackie and I have been fans of Left Bank since we were first going out. At the time, I lived in Palo Alto and we frequented the branch in Menlo Park. We took an opportunity to renew our acquaintance with the chainlet by eating a late lunch at the Left Bank’s San Mateo outpost.

As it was a Saturday, the menu was skewed by brunch offerings. (Don’t let the Left Bank web site fool you – the brunch menu is served on Saturday as well as Sunday, at least in San Mateo). We ignored the breakfast fare and ordered from the limited list lunch items.

I opted for the steak frites ($19.50), skipping the sauce Bordelaise (add $3.00). If you can cook a steak right, why ruin it with a sauce? And Left Bank can cook a steak. The “natural” (listen to this podcast to find out what “natural” really means) beef skirt steak was well-seasoned and cooked – perhaps a touch too rare for my medium preference but that’s me being grumpy – tender and tasty. The accompanying frites were also delicious, not as crisp as ideal but, again, that’s me being grumpy.

The only ...

The Acme of Chophouses

Grumpy — Mon, 19 May 2008 00:23:51 GMT

I’d been in a gastronomic slump. The meals I’d written about recently ranged from the promising but flawed (Grand Pu Bah, Beretta) to the abysmal (Chow, Mijita, Whole Foods Bistro). There were also some non-blogged disappointments at old standbys and places I’d tried for the first time.

I snapped out of my slump down at the ballpark, with a home run meal at the Acme Chophouse. Their bone-in rib-eye is one of my Top Ten Steaks in the City and it did not disappoint.

We led off with the iceberg wedge ($9.00). The ten-year obsession with the iceberg wedge as haute cuisine is one of the most ridiculous culinary trends of all time, ranking right up there with servers delivering black pepper from oversized grinders. There’s no taste and no nutrition. What’s the point??? But Mackie likes ‘em so I deferred to her wishes.

As far as wedges go, it was a good one. The lettuce was ultra crisp. The blue cheese exhibited the perfect degree of pungency. I’d quibble with the menu’s description of “creamy blue cheese” because the dressing was oil-based but the taste ...

The Story That Should Never Have Been

Grumpy — Sun, 11 May 2008 22:38:47 GMT

I’m no fan of Supervisor Tom Ammiano's politics or labor unions. I have serious reservations about Healthy San Francisco, however well-intended that city-mandated program may be. I’ve been open in my support for restaurants that impose a surcharge to cover Healthy San Francisco’s costs as I believe it important for voters to realize the financial impact of their elected officials’ actions.

But, there’s a right way and a wrong way for a restaurant to disclose their Healthy San Francisco surcharge and there’s a right and wrong way to report a story in the mainstream media and blogsphere. Unfortunately, when Ammiano and labor leader Criss Romero ate at 2223 Restaurant to participate in the Dining Out For Life benefit supporting a variety of HIV/AIDS relief organizations, the wrong way was the chosen way by the restaurant and the media, including bloggers.

San Francisco Magazine kicked off the fiasco by reporting on its staff blog, “According to [2223 Restaurant’s] chef-owner, Melinda Randolph, city supervisor Tom Ammiano dined there with five other guests, one of whom purportedly refused to pay the four percent service charge of $13.31 implemented ...

Trends or Lack Thereof

Grumpy — Sat, 10 May 2008 16:44:12 GMT

The loved and loathed Michael Bauer practically begged to be flamed when he wrote about local food trends and San Francisco restaurants in which to experience them in Between Meals. Commenters did not disappoint, unleashing a torrent of venom extreme even for the Bauer-haters that haunt his blog.

While a few raised valid points, most, to my mind, missed the mark, even ignoring the legion who said nothing more intelligent than “Bauer sucks.” The commenters focused on the list of restaurants. What struck me was the catalog of accompanying trends.

My first reaction was, “Is that all???” If MB really hit the big trends, there’s not much new happening in Bay Area restaurants. Which begs the question, did Bauer miss important developments or is the City becoming moribund?

I really don’t see great California cooking, regional Italian food, Spanish food and wine, small plates, Southern Indian food, high-end Vietnamese food or dim sum as being San Francisco food trends. All have been around for at least a decade.

IMO, the closest he comes to nailing it is when he talks about “the emerging bar culture in the Bay Area.” Even there, while on the right track, he doesn’t ...

The Great Beer Glass Investigation

Grumpy — Wed, 07 May 2008 13:11:16 GMT

When a commenter complained about size of the beer glasses at The Bell Tower, Grumpy Glutton Investigative Services sprang into action. Besides, it offered a great excuse to visit The Bell and have some lunch.

I determined that The Bell Tower’s beer glasses hold almost exactly 16 ounces.

How did I do this? I took a Pyrex measuring cup to The Bell and measured. Obsessive? Yes. But no stone will be left unturned for my loyal readers.

I have sympathy for the commenter’s sentiment, “Gee that beer went fast.” Beers always go fast for me. If he thinks that The Bell Tower’s go especially fast, I suspect that he’s been spoiled by bars that serve English imperial pints (19.2 ounces).

But, one can’t blame The Bell Tower for behaving as if we live in a country that drives on the right-hand side of the road. We do. And given the prices, The Bell delivers excellent value in a 16 ounce glass.

The lunch was great. Thick split pea soup, brimming with shredded ham. Carnitas with superb guacamole, black beans and rice on the side. Yummy!

I recommend that all of my readers do their own field research regarding The Bell Tower’s beer ...

Good Luck, Scott, We'll Miss You

Grumpy — Tue, 06 May 2008 16:48:13 GMT

OK, so I'm a bit behind -- Inside Scoop ran the story last week -- but I learned today that Scott Baird, one of my favorite bartenders in the City, has left COCO500 to take charge of the bar at 15 Romolo in North Beach.

I've raved about the great cocktail program that Scott ran at COCO. We'll certainly miss him in the 'hood.

North Beach is off my usual track but I'll make a point to visit 15 Romolo and post a report once Scott has his drinks menu in place.

Coffee Barred

Grumpy — Mon, 05 May 2008 22:22:00 GMT

Mackie needed caffeine. I needed Wi-Fi. And, I was curious.

What kind of coffee needs a $10,000 machine to make it?

I’d noticed Coffee Bar a few times when driving through the Mission. After reading that they possessed a Clover coffeemaker, I decided it would be our destination.

My first surprise was to learn that the Clover is truly a coffeemaker, not an espresso machine. Call me ignorant. I was.

Although I really wanted a latté, I stayed true to my task, ordering a $3.00 cup of Clover-made coffee. Coffee Bar gives you a selection of beans from which they’ll craft the precious brew. I asked for the richest.

Frankly, it was just coffee. I can already feel the flames thrown by coffee snobs out there in cyberspace but I’ll take my Starbucks latte any day.

For a place such as Coffee Bar, I don’t see how such a pricy machine makes any kind of economic sense. I heard a bunch of drinks being called during our visit but only one other Clover. Everything else came from the espresso machine. Felt to me like their Clover is an expensive, underutilized asset.

Mackie went for a latté, which she liked. She also ...

Ciao, Chow

Grumpy — Sun, 25 May 2008 18:48:00 GMT

I don’t understand the allure of Chow.

It sports three Bauer stars, is consistently in his Top 100, holds a Zagat food score of 20 and is a member of their Other Good Values list. But, on several occasions spanning several years, I’ve tried it and have failed to be impressed.

Late this afternoon, I found myself hungry at Church and Market and gave Chow another shot.

I still don’t understand the allure of Chow.

For a starter, I chose the wontons ($7.50). The perfectly flavored wrappers were filled with prawn and pork. The wontons swam in a vinegary sauce, topped by chopped ginger, sesame seeds and red pepper flakes. The dish struck a nice balance of flavors and I quickly inhaled it. For the price, I thought the portion sparse.

My spaghetti and meatballs ($10.95) main course was terrible. By any reasonable definition of the word, there was no sauce. Instead, reddish water pooled at the bottom of the bowl while a few small, lonely globs of cooked tomato perched atop my pasta. The meatballs were ...

Zuni at Home

Grumpy — Sat, 03 May 2008 13:25:36 GMT

If you’ve spent more than 30 seconds reading this blog, you’ll know I’m not much of a home chef. Mackie’s much more into it than I but she’ll occasionally tolerate my trying my hand in the kitchen.

Spacemai was kind enough to add Grumpy Glutton to her blogroll (thanks, darlin’) and while perusing her site, I read a post detailing how she’d found the recipe for Zuni's Roast Chicken and Bread Salad online and tried it. Hot dang, the photo of the chicken she cooked looked so good, I decided it try it for myself.

I tried the chicken a couple of nights ago and it was fantastic. Mine didn't look as good as Mai's -- I'm suspicious that my oven doesn't heat to the temperature indicated on the dial -- but it still rocked. I didn't attempt the bread salad. I wasn't *that* inspired.

If you decide to try this at home (and you should -- it's very simple if you follow the instructions carefully), one bit of advice. It can be difficult to find birds as small as the recipe indicates. ...