Right Coast Left


The Old Port Lobster Shack in Redwood City tries really hard to bring a little slice of Maine to California. Unfortunately, their reach exceeds their grasp.

I went whole hog for the 1 ¼ pound steamed Maine lobster ($32.75). It disappointed. Granted, it's been a decade or more since I've eaten a lobster in New England but I don't remember well-prepared ones leaking as much water or being marred by as much icky white stuff (I'm sure it has a name but I don't know it so it's icky white stuff to me) as this one. The claws were good — tasty, tender and a great carrier for the accompanying drawn butter — but the tail was tough. Side fries lousy — mushy, little taste. Side corn on the cob good. Side cole slaw surprisingly good, aided by the unexpected addition of raisins.

Mackie tried the naked lobster roll ($18.75) — lobster meat served on  a toasted "top-loading" hot dog bun, drawn butter on the side. Mackie wasn't interested in the bread. She just didn't want to pick her lobster meat out of a shell. She enjoyed it but it's not my idea of how to eat lobster. Served with side slaw and chips. She became envious of my corn on the cob and went to order some. They kindly comped her.

Selection of draft beers ($5.00 per glass, $16.75 per pitcher). I tried the Shipyard Ale, which was good.

This is going to sound odd for a place where you place your order at the counter but the service was excellent. Everyone was cheerful, polite and accommodating.

There are a few outdoor tables, which was nice on a warm evening but there's not much of a view — a strip mall parking lot and a Bakers Square across the way.

The Chron's review, written shortly after Old Port opened, complained, "Equipment, though, can be lacking." This was not the case during our visit. I was provided with a shell cracker, mini-fork, shell bowl and bib — exactly the tools I'd expect in the Nor'east.

A navigational warning — Old Port's storefront runs perpendicular to El Camino Real so it's darn near impossible to see their sign from the road. How Mackie managed to spot it while she was driving is beyond me. Use Bakers Square as your landmark.

While I applaud the effort, I'm afraid that some things just don't travel well in terms of quality or price. New England-style lobster joints may be one of them. I wish this weren't the case because I'd like more tangible reminders of my grad school days in Boston.

Old Port Lobster Shack
851 Veterans Blvd
between Middlefield Road and Jefferson Avenue
Redwood City, CA 94063
650-366-2400
Map
Web site
Food inspection score: Not located in San Francisco
Symbol of Excellence: N/A
-Friendly: N/A


 
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Comments

  • 7/15/2008 2:20 PM Russell wrote:
    Dear Grumpy,

    Thank you for trying my restaurant in Redwood City. Unfortunately, I don't think you remember your dining experiences in New England all that well. All steamed and/or boiled lobster will produce some water when cracked. I steam lobsters in a very good high end commercial steamer to minimize this, but it will happen.

    I have been in the lobster business (in Portland, Maine) since the early 90's. I know lobster as I was the largest exporter to several European countries for quite a few years. I also know lobster shacks, and I think I try to re-create the experience here as close as you will find anywhere west of Maine. Please read the reviews on yelp from those in the know, not the locals.

    We also have the hot dog rolls baked for us using pans I brought out from Boston. As California does not know proper hot dog rolls. This is the ONLY way to make lobster rolls. I make two types, The Maine (mixed with a bit of Hellmanns Mayo, lemon and green onion) and The Naked, (pure lobster meat on the roll with a side of mayo and drawn butter.

    Thank you for at least letting people know I try. I think I succeed, but I read all the reviews to see where I can improve. I will see what I can do about the excessive water in the lobster next time you visit. Just let the staff know the Grumpmeister in in the house.

    Thanks,

    Russell

    PS: You're suppose to imagine being on the pier in Kunnebunkport or Camden Harbor while eating outside. Come on Grumpy.......smell that salty Atlantic next time.
    Reply to this
    1. 7/24/2008 7:28 PM Grumpy wrote:
      I'll grant you that I haven't lived in New England since 1991 so my memories of lobster my have become idealized as the years have passed. As I said in the review, I applaud the effort but I'm not sure that the concept can travel well. That said, I'll try one of your locations again -- anyone can have a bad day.

      I also want to reiterate something positive I said in my review -- the service was excellent, which seems a weird thing to say about a joint where you order at the counter. You've done a great job hiring and training your staff.

      About the hot dog buns, I prefer hot dogs in mine. Next time, can I order one from the kids' menu???

      BTW, my favorite hot dogs on the West Coast are from the bar in the clubhouse of the Palo Alto municipal golf course. When the buns are fresh, they are awesome!


      Reply to this
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