Hungry in Hayes Valley
I found myself hungry in Hayes Valley. It was 2:30 in the afternoon. Other than a cup of coffee, I hadn’t eaten all day. (Yes, I know, coffee is drinking not eating but by the time I finish adding milk and sugar to my Java, I have a meal’s worth of calories in the cup.)
I was determined to branch out, try someplace new, but I succumbed to Absinthe’s siren song. It’s the city’s fault. They won’t let you cross Gough on the south side of Hayes and the timing of the green lights lured me to the northeast corner.
The Absinthe hamburger, ($10.50 plus $1.00 for Gruyere) is adequate. On the plus side, it’s large and juicy and was cooked to a perfect medium, just as I requested. On the down side, the Gruyere didn’t add any taste and the flavor of rosemary dominated the fresh-herb bun. For a slightly lower price, a better burger can be had at COCO500. However, if SoMa is geographically undesirable, the Absinthe burger is a solid, if not spectacular, choice.
The service was simply awesome. I never had to ask for a refill for my (good but fruity) iced tea yet my glass never ran dry. Nothing on the dessert menu struck my fancy – I was hoping for biscotti – but my server found some off-menu Earl Grey shortbread cookies that satisfied my desire for something sweet and crunchy.
After I'd been at Absinthe for a while, Mackie joined me and wanted real dessert. She ordered the hazelnut cake with brown butter anglaise and coffee ice cream ($8.00), generously sharing a few bites with me. It was very good, the cake flavored like a nice, light banana nut bread with hazelnuts rather than the usual walnuts.
Unfortunately, my need for an actual meal ruled out ordering my favorite thing at Absinthe – the cheese plate ($7.00 per selection, $30.00 for a tasting platter of five cheeses). A cheese plate plus a glass of wine or a cocktail – my favorite is the Citron Lemonade ($10.00) – is a perfect way to enjoy an early evening as the sun sets on Hayes Valley.
Absinthe Brasserie & Bar
398 Hayes Street
at Gough Street
San Francisco, CA 94102
415-551-1590
Web site
Food inspection score: 90
Symbol of Excellence: Yes
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