Cracking the Code at Trader Vic’s
Yes, yes, I know. Trader Vic’s. Formulaic chain. Tacky décor. Overpriced umbrella drinks. Overpriced, undergood food.
But, if you crack the code, you can get a satisfying meal for two for about $40 as take-out.
A few days ago, Mackie, my long-time, long-suffering girlfriend, and I were driving along I-80 west around dinner time. We decided to grab to-go from Trader Vic’s in Emeryville before crossing the bridge into the city.
Two orders of pork spareribs ($12.00 each), two orders of steamed rice ($3.50 each), one order of Chinese-style asparagus ($6.00) and we were ready to roll. Total damage, $44.24, including tax and tip. We had way more rice than we needed so we could have safely 86ed an order and reduced the tab to about $40.00.
Each sparerib order contains five meaty ribs coated with a slightly sweet Chinese barbeque sauce and cooked in Trader Vic’s wood-burning Chinese ovens. I took six, Mackie ate four and we both had our fill.
The rice is, well, steamed rice. Nothing special but perfectly acceptable. The portions are generous – one order can sate two people.
The Chinese-style asparagus is sparsely dressed with oyster sauce. The sauce itself is rather light – not the gelatinous mess served by many Chinese restaurants – and nicely complements the steamed al dente asparagus.
If you’re eating in, have the fried bananas for dessert. The piping hot, crisply fried coating on the bananas is nicely balanced by a scoop of cold ice cream. Don’t get this dish to go – as the coating cools, it loses is crispness. When combined with melting ice cream, you’re left with a soggy jumble that loses all of its appeal.
Have a hankering for some good Chinese-style spareribs? Head for Trader Vic’s. Anything else? Fugeddaboudit!
Trader Vic's
9 Anchor Drive
at Powell Street
Emeryville, CA 94608
Web site
Food inspection score: Not located in San Francisco
Symbol of Excellence: N/A
Navigation note: The sign for Trader Vic's is dimly light and hard to see from Powell Street. It's easy to miss the turn onto Anchor Drive. As you drive westbound on Powell Street, go slowly and look to the right for the Trader Vic's sign and the turn onto Anchor Drive.
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