Grumpy Glutton
Grumping about San Francsico restaurants since 2008. It only seems like longer.
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Grumpy Glutton
The Acme of Chophouses
I’d been in a gastronomic slump. The meals I’d written about recently ranged from the promising but flawed (Grand Pu Bah, Beretta) to the abysmal (Chow, Mijita, Whole Foods Bistro).
There were also some non-blogged disappointments at old standbys and places I’d tried for the first time.
I snapped out of my slump down at the ballpark, with a home run meal at the Acme Chophouse. Their bone-in rib-eye is one of my Top Ten Steaks in the City and it did not disappoint.
We led off with the iceberg wedge ($9.00). The ten-year obsession with the iceberg wedge as haute cuisine is one of the most ridiculous culinary trends of all time, ranking right up there with servers delivering black pepper from oversized grinders. There’s no taste and no nutrition. What’s the point??? But Mackie likes ‘em so I deferred to her wishes.
As far as wedges go, it was a good one. The lettuce was ultra crisp. The blue cheese exhibited the perfect degree of pungency. I’d quibble with the menu’s description of “creamy blue cheese” because the dressing was oil-based but the taste ...<< MORE >>
I snapped out of my slump down at the ballpark, with a home run meal at the Acme Chophouse. Their bone-in rib-eye is one of my Top Ten Steaks in the City and it did not disappoint.
We led off with the iceberg wedge ($9.00). The ten-year obsession with the iceberg wedge as haute cuisine is one of the most ridiculous culinary trends of all time, ranking right up there with servers delivering black pepper from oversized grinders. There’s no taste and no nutrition. What’s the point??? But Mackie likes ‘em so I deferred to her wishes.
As far as wedges go, it was a good one. The lettuce was ultra crisp. The blue cheese exhibited the perfect degree of pungency. I’d quibble with the menu’s description of “creamy blue cheese” because the dressing was oil-based but the taste ...<< MORE >>
The Story That Should Never Have Been
I’m no fan of Supervisor Tom Ammiano's politics or labor unions. I have serious reservations about Healthy San Francisco, however well-intended that city-mandated program may be. I’ve been open in my support for restaurants that impose a surcharge to cover Healthy San
Francisco’s costs as I believe it important for voters to realize the financial impact of their elected officials’ actions.
But, there’s a right way and a wrong way for a restaurant to disclose their Healthy San Francisco surcharge and there’s a right and wrong way to report a story in the mainstream media and blogsphere. Unfortunately, when Ammiano and labor leader Criss Romero ate at 2223 Restaurant to participate in the Dining Out For Life benefit supporting a variety of HIV/AIDS relief organizations, the wrong way was the chosen way by the restaurant and the media, including bloggers.
San Francisco Magazine kicked off the fiasco by reporting on its staff blog, “According to [2223 Restaurant’s] chef-owner, Melinda Randolph, city supervisor Tom Ammiano dined there with five other guests, one of whom purportedly refused to pay the four percent service charge of $13.31 implemented ...<< MORE >>
But, there’s a right way and a wrong way for a restaurant to disclose their Healthy San Francisco surcharge and there’s a right and wrong way to report a story in the mainstream media and blogsphere. Unfortunately, when Ammiano and labor leader Criss Romero ate at 2223 Restaurant to participate in the Dining Out For Life benefit supporting a variety of HIV/AIDS relief organizations, the wrong way was the chosen way by the restaurant and the media, including bloggers.
San Francisco Magazine kicked off the fiasco by reporting on its staff blog, “According to [2223 Restaurant’s] chef-owner, Melinda Randolph, city supervisor Tom Ammiano dined there with five other guests, one of whom purportedly refused to pay the four percent service charge of $13.31 implemented ...<< MORE >>
Trends or Lack Thereof
The loved and loathed Michael Bauer practically begged to be flamed when he wrote about local food trends and San Francisco restaurants in which to experience them in Between
Meals. Commenters did not disappoint, unleashing a torrent of venom extreme even for the Bauer-haters that haunt his blog.
While a few raised valid points, most, to my mind, missed the mark, even ignoring the legion who said nothing more intelligent than “Bauer sucks.” The commenters focused on the list of restaurants. What struck me was the catalog of accompanying trends.
My first reaction was, “Is that all???” If MB really hit the big trends, there’s not much new happening in Bay Area restaurants. Which begs the question, did Bauer miss important developments or is the City becoming moribund?
I really don’t see great California cooking, regional Italian food, Spanish food and wine, small plates, Southern Indian food, high-end Vietnamese food or dim sum as being San Francisco food trends. All have been around for at least a decade.
IMO, the closest he comes to nailing it is when he talks about “the emerging bar culture in the Bay Area.” Even there, while on the right track, he doesn’t ...<< MORE >>
While a few raised valid points, most, to my mind, missed the mark, even ignoring the legion who said nothing more intelligent than “Bauer sucks.” The commenters focused on the list of restaurants. What struck me was the catalog of accompanying trends.
My first reaction was, “Is that all???” If MB really hit the big trends, there’s not much new happening in Bay Area restaurants. Which begs the question, did Bauer miss important developments or is the City becoming moribund?
I really don’t see great California cooking, regional Italian food, Spanish food and wine, small plates, Southern Indian food, high-end Vietnamese food or dim sum as being San Francisco food trends. All have been around for at least a decade.
IMO, the closest he comes to nailing it is when he talks about “the emerging bar culture in the Bay Area.” Even there, while on the right track, he doesn’t ...<< MORE >>
The Great Beer Glass Investigation
When a commenter complained about size of
the beer glasses at The Bell Tower, Grumpy Glutton Investigative Services sprang into action. Besides, it offered a great excuse to visit The Bell and have some lunch.
I determined that The Bell Tower’s beer glasses hold almost exactly 16 ounces.
How did I do this? I took a Pyrex measuring cup to The Bell and measured. Obsessive? Yes. But no stone will be left unturned for my loyal readers.
I have sympathy for the commenter’s sentiment, “Gee that beer went fast.” Beers always go fast for me. If he thinks that The Bell Tower’s go especially fast, I suspect that he’s been spoiled by bars that serve English imperial pints (19.2 ounces).
But, one can’t blame The Bell Tower for behaving as if we live in a country that drives on the right-hand side of the road. We do. And given the prices, The Bell delivers excellent value in a 16 ounce glass.
The lunch was great. Thick split pea soup, brimming with shredded ham. Carnitas with superb guacamole, black beans and rice on the side. Yummy!
I recommend that all of my readers do their own field research regarding The Bell Tower’s beer ...<< MORE >>
I determined that The Bell Tower’s beer glasses hold almost exactly 16 ounces.
How did I do this? I took a Pyrex measuring cup to The Bell and measured. Obsessive? Yes. But no stone will be left unturned for my loyal readers.
I have sympathy for the commenter’s sentiment, “Gee that beer went fast.” Beers always go fast for me. If he thinks that The Bell Tower’s go especially fast, I suspect that he’s been spoiled by bars that serve English imperial pints (19.2 ounces).
But, one can’t blame The Bell Tower for behaving as if we live in a country that drives on the right-hand side of the road. We do. And given the prices, The Bell delivers excellent value in a 16 ounce glass.
The lunch was great. Thick split pea soup, brimming with shredded ham. Carnitas with superb guacamole, black beans and rice on the side. Yummy!
I recommend that all of my readers do their own field research regarding The Bell Tower’s beer ...<< MORE >>
Good Luck, Scott, We'll Miss You
OK, so I'm a bit behind — Inside Scoop ran the story last week — but I learned today that Scott Baird, one of my favorite bartenders in the City, has
left COCO500 to take charge of the bar at 15
Romolo in North Beach.
I've raved about the great cocktail program that Scott ran at COCO. We'll certainly miss him in the 'hood.
North Beach is off my usual track but I'll make a point to visit 15 Romolo and post a report once Scott has his drinks menu in place.
<< MORE >>
I've raved about the great cocktail program that Scott ran at COCO. We'll certainly miss him in the 'hood.
North Beach is off my usual track but I'll make a point to visit 15 Romolo and post a report once Scott has his drinks menu in place.
<< MORE >>
Coffee Barred
Mackie needed caffeine. I needed Wi-Fi. And, I was curious.
What kind of coffee needs a $10,000 machine to make it?
I’d noticed Coffee Bar a few times when driving through the Mission. After reading that they possessed a Clover coffeemaker, I decided it would be our destination.
My first surprise was to learn that the Clover is truly a coffeemaker, not an espresso machine. Call me ignorant. I was.
Although I really wanted a latté, I stayed true to my task, ordering a $3.00 cup of Clover-made coffee. Coffee Bar gives you a selection of beans from which they’ll craft the precious brew. I asked for the richest.
Frankly, it was just coffee. I can already feel the flames thrown by coffee snobs out there in cyberspace but I’ll take my Starbucks latte any day.
For a place such as Coffee Bar, I don’t see how such a pricy machine makes any kind of economic sense. I heard a bunch of drinks being called during our visit but only one other Clover. Everything else came from the espresso machine. Felt to me like their Clover is an expensive, underutilized asset.
Mackie went for a latté, which she liked. She also ...<< MORE >>
What kind of coffee needs a $10,000 machine to make it?
I’d noticed Coffee Bar a few times when driving through the Mission. After reading that they possessed a Clover coffeemaker, I decided it would be our destination.
My first surprise was to learn that the Clover is truly a coffeemaker, not an espresso machine. Call me ignorant. I was.
Although I really wanted a latté, I stayed true to my task, ordering a $3.00 cup of Clover-made coffee. Coffee Bar gives you a selection of beans from which they’ll craft the precious brew. I asked for the richest.
Frankly, it was just coffee. I can already feel the flames thrown by coffee snobs out there in cyberspace but I’ll take my Starbucks latte any day.
For a place such as Coffee Bar, I don’t see how such a pricy machine makes any kind of economic sense. I heard a bunch of drinks being called during our visit but only one other Clover. Everything else came from the espresso machine. Felt to me like their Clover is an expensive, underutilized asset.
Mackie went for a latté, which she liked. She also ...<< MORE >>
Ciao, Chow
I’ve don’t understand the allure of Chow.
It sports three Bauer stars, is consistently in his Top 100, holds a Zagat food score of 20 and is a member of their Other Good Values list. But, on several occasions spanning several years, I’ve tried it and have failed to be impressed.
Late this afternoon, I found myself hungry at Church and Market and gave Chow another shot.
I still don’t understand the allure of Chow.
For a starter, I chose the wontons ($7.50). The perfectly flavored wrappers were filled with prawn and pork. The wontons swam in a vinegary sauce, topped by chopped ginger, sesame seeds and red pepper flakes. The dish struck a nice balance of flavors and I quickly inhaled it. For the price, I thought the portion sparse.
My spaghetti and meatballs ($10.95) main course was terrible. By any reasonable definition of the word, there was no sauce. Instead, reddish water pooled at the bottom of the bowl while a few small, lonely globs of cooked tomato perched atop my pasta. The meatballs were ...<< MORE >>
It sports three Bauer stars, is consistently in his Top 100, holds a Zagat food score of 20 and is a member of their Other Good Values list. But, on several occasions spanning several years, I’ve tried it and have failed to be impressed.
Late this afternoon, I found myself hungry at Church and Market and gave Chow another shot.
I still don’t understand the allure of Chow.
For a starter, I chose the wontons ($7.50). The perfectly flavored wrappers were filled with prawn and pork. The wontons swam in a vinegary sauce, topped by chopped ginger, sesame seeds and red pepper flakes. The dish struck a nice balance of flavors and I quickly inhaled it. For the price, I thought the portion sparse.
My spaghetti and meatballs ($10.95) main course was terrible. By any reasonable definition of the word, there was no sauce. Instead, reddish water pooled at the bottom of the bowl while a few small, lonely globs of cooked tomato perched atop my pasta. The meatballs were ...<< MORE >>
Zuni at Home
If you’ve spent more than 30 seconds reading this blog, you’ll know I’m not much of a home chef. Mackie’s much more into it than I but she’ll occasionally tolerate my
trying my hand in the kitchen.
Spacemai was kind enough to add Grumpy Glutton to her blogroll (thanks, darlin’) and while perusing her site, I read a post detailing how she’d found the recipe for Zuni's Roast Chicken and Bread Salad online and tried it. Hot dang, the photo of the chicken she cooked looked so good, I decided it try it for myself.
I tried the chicken a couple of nights ago and it was fantastic. Mine didn't look as good as Mai's — I'm suspicious that my oven doesn't heat to the temperature indicated on the dial — but it still rocked. I didn't attempt the bread salad. I wasn't *that* inspired.
If you decide to try this at home (and you should — it's very simple if you follow the instructions carefully), one bit of advice. It can be difficult to find birds as small as the recipe indicates. ...<< MORE >>
Spacemai was kind enough to add Grumpy Glutton to her blogroll (thanks, darlin’) and while perusing her site, I read a post detailing how she’d found the recipe for Zuni's Roast Chicken and Bread Salad online and tried it. Hot dang, the photo of the chicken she cooked looked so good, I decided it try it for myself.
I tried the chicken a couple of nights ago and it was fantastic. Mine didn't look as good as Mai's — I'm suspicious that my oven doesn't heat to the temperature indicated on the dial — but it still rocked. I didn't attempt the bread salad. I wasn't *that* inspired.
If you decide to try this at home (and you should — it's very simple if you follow the instructions carefully), one bit of advice. It can be difficult to find birds as small as the recipe indicates. ...<< MORE >>
Grand Flavors, Chewy Beef
UPDATED: May 9, 2008
Walking into Grand Pu Bah was a shock. Given the location — the street-level retail strip of a larger building, across from the greasiest of greasy spoons and at the edge of lower Potrero's shabby commercial warehouse district — I was expecting the Thai equivalent of Chevy's decor, at best.
But upon entering I discovered that the interior was — gasp! — really, really nice. Appointed with dark woods and a beautifully lit bar, I felt as if walking through the door had transported me from SoMa to the Financial District. (I'm sure the desired effect was SoMa to Thailand but I've never been to The Land of Smiles so it wouldn't be fair to make that comparison.) It was truly surprising, in a good way.
On our first visit, at lunchtime, Mackie and I were disappointed to learn that the restaurant had sold out of the fried pork spare ribs. At our waiter's suggestion, we tried instead the sizzling spicy prawns ($10.00). The dish was good — six medium-large prawns (shell backs split, prawns deveined for those of you squeamish about such things) served on a sizzling platter with a thin ...<< MORE >>
Walking into Grand Pu Bah was a shock. Given the location — the street-level retail strip of a larger building, across from the greasiest of greasy spoons and at the edge of lower Potrero's shabby commercial warehouse district — I was expecting the Thai equivalent of Chevy's decor, at best.
But upon entering I discovered that the interior was — gasp! — really, really nice. Appointed with dark woods and a beautifully lit bar, I felt as if walking through the door had transported me from SoMa to the Financial District. (I'm sure the desired effect was SoMa to Thailand but I've never been to The Land of Smiles so it wouldn't be fair to make that comparison.) It was truly surprising, in a good way.
On our first visit, at lunchtime, Mackie and I were disappointed to learn that the restaurant had sold out of the fried pork spare ribs. At our waiter's suggestion, we tried instead the sizzling spicy prawns ($10.00). The dish was good — six medium-large prawns (shell backs split, prawns deveined for those of you squeamish about such things) served on a sizzling platter with a thin ...<< MORE >>
Whole Foods Half-Assed Bistro
One would think that, with Whole Foods' emphasis on freshness, organics and general wholesomeness, salads served in the downstairs bistro of their Potrero Hill location would be the pinnacle of
pristine greenness. One would be wrong.
The California Cobb salad ($9.99) I ordered was made from lettuce that had obviously knife-cut hours (if not days) earlier. Every piece I observed was brown on two edges. It wasn't that it tasted bad — to the contrary, it was pretty good — but visual appeal an important part of eating. I shuttered involuntarily as I watch each forkful approach my mouth. While the flavor pleased my palate, the overall effect was not so much.
Mackie is partial to their BLTA ($6.99), hold the T. I think it's just OK. Where we agree is on the accompanying fries — dreadful. Granted they're (sort of) fresh cut — if you sit at the counter, you can watch them take the sliced potatoes out of the storage water and place them in the fryer — but they suck. Mooshy. Flavorless. Pale. None of the qualities of a good fry. More recently, Mackie discovered that a side salad is an ...<< MORE >>
The California Cobb salad ($9.99) I ordered was made from lettuce that had obviously knife-cut hours (if not days) earlier. Every piece I observed was brown on two edges. It wasn't that it tasted bad — to the contrary, it was pretty good — but visual appeal an important part of eating. I shuttered involuntarily as I watch each forkful approach my mouth. While the flavor pleased my palate, the overall effect was not so much.
Mackie is partial to their BLTA ($6.99), hold the T. I think it's just OK. Where we agree is on the accompanying fries — dreadful. Granted they're (sort of) fresh cut — if you sit at the counter, you can watch them take the sliced potatoes out of the storage water and place them in the fryer — but they suck. Mooshy. Flavorless. Pale. None of the qualities of a good fry. More recently, Mackie discovered that a side salad is an ...<< MORE >>